10th anniversary NRSF Visit to North Ronaldsay
A brief round-up by Edward Lambert
The North Ronaldsay Sheep Fellowship was officially born at the RBST Show and Sale held at Stoneleigh in 1997. It was the culmination of a number of informal discussions and meetings by those interested in the unique seaweed-eating breed.
In recognition of its decade of existence, Hunter Peace, husband of NRSF Chairman Rita, took on the task of organising a visit to North Ronaldsay.
On 31 May, some twenty participants arrived in Orkney independently by a combination of boat, plane, rail or road and were given a guided tour of Mainland by Orcadian NRSF member Elizabeth Lovick. Participants squeezed cosily into the hired mini-bus and visited a number of sites of historical significance taking in locations spanning a number of centuries – from the Stone Age village of Skara Brae to the modern Highland Park Distillery – which almost everybody managed to leave in an upright position.
Scapa Flow - Europe’s largest natural harbour and an important naval base in both World Wars was the first port of call before heading to the prehistoric tomb of Maes Howe which dates from around 2700BC and is one of the monuments that make up Neolithic Orkney World Heritage Site. Viking crusaders carved graffiti runes on the walls of the main chamber and this was a remarkable feature to observe.
The Ring of Brodgar was next on the agenda en route to Skara Brae - a 5000 year old Stone Age village nestling on the shores of the imposing Atlantic Ocean. It was inhabited for over a thousand years before being buried in sand and then part-revealed in 1850 as a result of storm damage. Since then, it has been excavated to reveal the remains of several houses, complete with stone furniture and tools made of animal bone and flint. After lunch in the visitor centre, the group went to the Italian Chapel - created by Italian prisoners of war - over 500 of whom were taken to Orkney in early 1942. They were needed to overcome the shortage of labour on the four causeways of Scapa Flow but still found time to convert a Nissen hut into beautiful chapel which stands today as a symbol of their skill, faith and, ultimately, their reconciliation with their captors.
Day one concluded with dinner in Kirkwall, the Orkney ‘capital’ and with everybody well fed and lubricated, plans were unveiled for getting to North Ronaldsay the next day. Hunter Peace had been in discussion with Orkney Ferries who had advised him that they were planning to sail at 5am on Friday morning; he couldn’t, however, say with confidence that there would be a return ferry on the Sunday! A number of people therefore quickly booked the remaining seats on the plane out of North Ronaldsay on the Sunday morning, given that high seas would probably prevent the ship sailing – which it did!
The outward bound 5 am ferry set sail, while the 7am flight to North Ronaldsay from Kirkwall couldn’t take off due to fog. The islander plane operates on sight flying rather than with computerised navigation. Meantime the ferry voyagers sent text messages to those waiting to fly out of Kirkwall, saying that they had arrived and were striding along the silver sands of North Ronaldsay beside turquoise waters on a gloriously sunny day. Green faced responses said optimistically – “we’ll be there soon!”
Everybody did eventually get there; the Friday evening saw Dr June Morris, NRSF member and North Ronaldsay islander, give a talk on the history of primitive sheep – this was a fascinating account made all the more interesting by the presence of other islanders who work the crofts of North Ronaldsay and keep sheep on the foreshore.
Needless to say, island hospitality meant that one or two drams of malt were consumed throughout the evening but such was the enthusiasm of the delegates that on the following morning no one admitted to over-indulgence as
the group set off to visit the island’s wool processing mill – expertly managed by Jane Donnelly. Jane gave a step by step tour of the processing process – from the raw material through to the automated finished product. While half the group focussed on wool, the other half had a fine view of the island and miles beyond – from a vantage point some139ft above sea level at the top of the lighthouse.
In the afternoon John Cutt, who has recently published a book – “Reminiscences of a North Ronaldsay Man” gathered some of his ewes and lambs into his byre. These were fine specimens of North Ronaldsay sheep and offered the opportunity for the visitors and the two crofters present to discuss the finer attributes of the breed.
The day concluded with a talk at the Bird Observatory by Orkney vet, Bill Carstairs followed by informal discussion among visitors and islanders.
All three days saw fine hospitality from June Morris at ‘Howar’ as well as a tour of the Burrian Broch – a historic site in the grounds of June’s property with superb views across Nouster Bay.
There remains a serious concern for the state of the Sheep Dyke which is a fundamental part of the management system of the island sheep. It is in a serious state of collapse in some areas and the ravages of winters storms will undoubtedly visit more damage on this crucial structure, which ironically has been afforded protected status by Historic Scotland. If the integrity of the dyke continues to be breached, the sheep will not be managed in the traditional way and the crofts will be threatened. It appears that there is simply insufficient manpower on the island to cope with dyke maintenance. This must be a major concern to the islanders and it would appear that there is an urgent need for assistance. There is a fine balance to be struck between intruding upon a unique community and their traditions and watching their age-old structures collapse for want of outside assistance. One can only hope that a call will come from the Island and that those who stand ready to assist will respond appropriately to preserve this priceless part of our heritage.
This was a memorable event - remembered for the hospitality and kindness of islanders and for the fellowship of NRSF members of UK and USA origin, who enjoyed the educational and social elements of one of Britain’s most remote, beautiful and culturally rich communities.
